CV bolts backed out - Dorkiphus.net

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Old 05-12-2013, 03:28 PM
Lt. Dan Lt. Dan is offline
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Default CV bolts backed out

Almost had a fail today... Started hearing a *clink* noise during shifts and leaving stoplights from the back of the car... Then when I got to Ihop this morning, the car rocked NOTICEABLY a lot more forward when I parked... Got home to start poking around, and immediately found my problem- I had not put lock-tite on the allen bolts for my axles, and the driver's side ones had almost completely backed out! Oops....
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:29 AM
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NOTE TO MODERATORS, Maybe move my reply out of the fail thread, and into its own thread. I don't think it belongs in a FAIL, but I didn't know the best way to handle.

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Originally Posted by Lt. Dan View Post
Almost had a fail today... Started hearing a *clink* noise during shifts and leaving stoplights from the back of the car... Then when I got to Ihop this morning, the car rocked NOTICEABLY a lot more forward when I parked... Got home to start poking around, and immediately found my problem- I had not put lock-tite on the allen bolts for my axles, and the driver's side ones had almost completely backed out! Oops....
As one who recently experienced this issue:

1) If you use Cardone replacement axles from Rockauto or Partsgeek, the metal washer like things that go under the bolt head deform. The metal of these parts is not hard enough. I found that I needed to tighten them on the track after each 25 minute session (5 sessions in a row), not because the bolts were loosening or turning, but because the washer was compressing. In the picture, the washer type thing on the right is the cheap one, look how the metal deformed from the pressure of the bolt, the one on the left is the genuine Porsche one. So, re-use your old ones, don't use a new one from the Cardone axle. (The bolt on the left is a Stage 8 bolt, explained below).
Name:  Cheap washer.jpg
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2) Thread locker (loctite) may not work too well, as the bolt threads usually get covered with grease, making the loctite ineffective.

3) You are supposed to use new bolts. They are a single-use stretch bolt and should not be reused.

4) Because of my problem with the washer deforming mentioned in 1) above, I thought the bolts were stretching and defective, so I got Stage 8 bolts with a tab that goes over the head. Those bolts will never loosen, if the locking tab is properly installed.
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:16 PM
Lt. Dan Lt. Dan is offline
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I LOVE those Stage 8 bolts!!! Where did you get them??
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:22 PM
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Good tech content, so I split it from the fail thread.
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:28 PM
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Those locking bolts that Jim suggests should do the trick.

But if you're cheap like me (or Dr. K), I've found that cleaning out the holes in the joint and stub axle well to remove grease works for me. I've only had 1 joint loosen in 10+ years of ownership.

I recently got tired of some bolts stretching before proper torque is applied and fussing with the triple-square bits. I switched to grade 12 allen heads and torque them to ~45#.
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Old 05-13-2013, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt. Dan View Post
I LOVE those Stage 8 bolts!!! Where did you get them??
Amazon (w/ Prime Shipping)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that I feel like throwing these bolts out the window. Not that they have failed, but after I installed them I had to remove the axles several times, and they are a real pain in the butt. Those c-clips are small, they bend easily, they get lost, etc.

I had to replace the rear wheel bearings (unrelated issue). So, I had to take the axle bolts out and reinstall them. Then, I had an axle fail (likely due to user error, but not sure). So, I had to take out the axle and reinstall.

These stage 8 bolts take a long time install and remove. Plus, they have a very small head that requires a 12 point socket (maybe 6mm in size). Almost no one has such a small socket in 12 point, so you'll probably have to buy a set of those. Plus, with such a small 12 point socket receiving 30 ft-lbs, if you are at a bit of an angle, you'll jack up the head of the bolt. (Yes, I did that to one of them.)

If I were to do it all over again, I'd go with Jerome's recommendation of ordinary non-stretch allen heads which are of a high grade, and torquing to 45 ft-lbs.

Jim
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairfax 944 View Post
they are a real pain in the butt
Dr K may have a less painful option for you.
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roundel View Post
Dr K may have a less painful option for you.
Are you talking about a special MD rated lube, or the grade 12 bolts Jerome mentioned?
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerome951 View Post
Those locking bolts that Jim suggests should do the trick.

But if you're cheap like me (or Dr. K), I've found that cleaning out the holes in the joint and stub axle well to remove grease works for me. I've only had 1 joint loosen in 10+ years of ownership.

I recently got tired of some bolts stretching before proper torque is applied and fussing with the triple-square bits. I switched to grade 12 allen heads and torque them to ~45#.
X(what ever), an other option is the safty wire drilled ones from a guy on the 914.com site. I reuse mine 3x. I also make sure the stub axel and CV mounting services are clean of debres.
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt. Dan View Post
I LOVE those Stage 8 bolts!!! Where did you get them??
If you're interested in purchasing a set, I actually have a spare set available. I had bought for all the 944's, with the intention of installing the next time an axle was removed. But, haven't had to pull an axle for a while. And with 1 less fofo in the fleet, I can spare a set. PM me if you're interested.
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